Saturday, June 24

Black Glass

Been surfing around Anglesea lately. I seem to end up there for sunset surfs. Tomorrow, once again, there will be a late pulse of swell and an evening 'glass off' (meaning the wind turns light and offshore) so I'll head down for another end of day surf. I hope it is as good as two week ago when I had a great session next to the Urquarts Bluff cliffs in glassy head high surf with just a handful of other folks out. I stayed out there by myself after the sun set and it started to get dark. Just after everyone else went in the full moon came out from behind the black clouds on the horizon, adding its faint white illumination to the tail end of dusk. I was sitting out the back for ages squinting into the blackness waiting for a set to come through so I could catch a wave in. Eventually, a dark wave loomed up in front of me and I turned, took off and bottom turned into a left of perfectly smooth black glass - until the wave closed out in an explosion of suddenly bright white foam.

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