Friday, April 21


An algorithm for locating me:

Small to medium swell and W to NW winds = Guvvos
Large swell and W to NW winds = Shoreham (high tide only)
Small to medium swell and NE winds (or light E winds) = Gunnamatta
Large swell and NE winds = 13th Beach (if not too big)
Large swell and S to SE winds = Cat Bay (high tide only, mid-week only as too crowded on weekends)
Small to Medium swell and N winds = 13th Beach
Mid-week, medium swell, cold, cloudy winter day with NW winds = Bells Beach
Medium swell and SW winds = Urquhart Bluff if desperate (or maybe Torquay surf beach if not too crowded)
Large swell, high tide and light SW winds = Secret Spot (not telling)


About 6 hours after posting the above Phil and I headed to Urquhart Bluff. After catching a wave to the inside I realised it was breaking over a waist deep rock shelf. Soon after, I had two separate cuts requiring stiches.

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Ok, all of the above is true but the injury was from hitting my own board in a wipe out rather than from rocks (which would definitely be cooler). I was very surprised to be bleeding (let alone have two deep cuts) as I didn't hit my board very hard at all. I was also surprised to discover how much local anesthetic hurts. It's like having acid injected into your face. I mean the stuff is supposed to be ANESTHETIC right? Anyway, I'm extremely annoyed because we'd barely started surfing and I'll also have to miss out on Anzac day because the stitches will still be in.


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