Thursday, June 7

The King of Crap

That's what my housemate Jay calls me. Because I continually scan the Point and 38th for those moments when supposedly crappy conditions (onshore winds, full tide, etc) drive away most of the surfers and then - zoom - I'm running back to the house, jumping into my wetsuit and paddling out to enjoy some uncrowded waves.

Like on Sunday evening when, at the tail end of a weekend of good swell, a light onshore breeze and a long wait between sets had the crowd down to only 5 or 6 surfers. By the time I paddled out (just before sunset) there were only three of us. BUT about every 15 minutes a big southern hemisphere swell would roll in through the kelp and break way out the back (right next to a recklessly moored catamaran). In 45 minutes of surfable twilight I picked up three epic rides including an 8 foot set wave that peeled gloriously all the way to the sand. King of Crap indeed.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

Are we talking 8 foot Hawaiian?

But I like your King of Crap theory.


3:21 AM  
Blogger dan said...

Nope - definitely not 8 foot Hawaiian - in Cal they measure wave face size and tend to avoid the ridiculous understatement common in other places - so the wave face was 8 feet (give or take).

11:18 AM  
Blogger currelli said...

this is a habit common to most western australians - where those unwilling to surf in onshore conditions limit their wave exposure to midnight - 5am in summer! Some of my best surfs have been in "crap" conditions and hey - they were with you!

11:32 PM  

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